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I find they all generally try the same tactics. Go in armed with information and research, and don't physically go in, until your CA tells you the vehicle arrived and its ready for delivery.
My approach is to research the money factor and residual set forth by BMW FS (when I'm leasing) and set a target % discount from MSRP (for a lease or purchase scenario). Generally my target discount is 10-12% for BMW (depending on the model ... I'm usually looking at X5/5-series or above). Of course COVID-19 is not helping the usual discount, as demand has generally been exceeding supply ... but many are still reporting healthy discounting (7-9%).
I also research any BMW NA / BMW FS incentives I qualify for (ie. general model incentives like APR credits, owner loyalty, military, college grad, etc.). These will come additionally off the top after your negotiated MSRP discount.
In your case, since you are a long-term purchase (assuming Z4 since you posted here), set a goal of 8% off MSRP, and just call around to all your local dealers (assuming you don't want to do Spartanburg PCD), ask for the General Sales Manager, and tell them you are ready to purchase today: ___ model BMW with an MSRP of ____ and that you are willing to pay _____ and have credit card in hand for a $2500 deposit on your Priority 1 order ... do you want the deal?
Many will laugh and offer you a banquet of BS about why they can't do it, and you will get a few that want to play. Work with the ones that want to play, and know the only thing the dealer has flexibility over adding is their documentary fee (here in NJ i've seen some crazy fees anywhere from $349 standard going rate all the way to $799 highway robbery). Dealers generally will not budge on these "fixed" fees which cover the overhead for the front-end of the dealership.
Be sure you then mention the programs that you qualify for on top of their dealership discount, and ensure they are written into the agreement. Have them e-mail/fax you a buyers order and review to see any stupid add-ons like window etching and other nonsense fluff 99% profit items and have them removed and buyer's order reissued. Only execute the order when you are satisfied that it meets the deal you discussed.
Additionally, build the car on BMW USA website, and print out the page with the summary that includes the BMW option codes for the packages and items you selected for your build to ensure they enter the order into the system correctly. Also request a print-out from the BMW order system showing the order number and order status for your order. You want to see Status 111 accepted, if its not this status, then the dealer likely doesn't have an allocation for the model you are buying and you may be waiting a while for them to trade allocations with another dealership for an allocation on another model they want ... or for BMW to assign them an allocation to order.
When you pickup the vehicle, you will be sitting with the F&I guy at the dealership who's sole purpose is to generate additional dealership profit on warranty and protection program sales. Just tell the guy upfront that you aren't buying anything he's got to offer and to generate the paperwork to execute based on your buyer's order (in a polite manner), assuming you don't want anything like the prepaid maintenance plan or other protection plans that they will offer.
I personally find that negotiating to a reasonable price on a $0 deductible, no max payout policy limit tire and wheel protection plan on a daily-driver vehicle is never a losing proposition, atleast here in NJ where potholes are plentiful and your vehicle will likely be equipped with run-on-flat tires that can not be patched/repaired from road debris and will need to be replaced with a new tire. Don't pay more than $1400.
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