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how hard is it to install springs?
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11-13-2010, 01:15 AM | #1 |
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how hard is it to install springs?
my springs arrived today and i was quoted in the low $200's by shops around me just to install them, not including alignment. i saw a DIY and it looks challenging but doable. i'm thinking about installing them along with a friend who is really into cars, works at a bmw service center and is currently in school for auto mechanics. what do you guys think?
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11-13-2010, 01:34 AM | #2 |
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Doable. But you guys better do things by the book. Any shortcuts and you could hurt yourselves badly. And I'm not exaggerating.
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11-13-2010, 01:38 AM | #3 |
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Most I think it just comes down to if you have tools or not and a flat place to work.
Jackstands, torque wrench, spring compressor, and a decent set of sockets/wrenches, rubber mallet etc...maybe a pickle fork, Bentley Manual (for the torque specs)... and patience. I haven't done mine yet but I've done lots of suspensions... Lift kits, coil overs, lowering kits etc... over the years. It always takes longer than you think and if it isnt level you'll be sweating it falling the whole time...other than that, just follow the instructions. If it didn't come with any, follow the service manual for removal etc.. So yeah, doable. |
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11-13-2010, 01:41 AM | #4 |
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thanks guys, just needed some reassurance. my friend has all the tools we need aside from a spring compressor which i could probably pick up at pep boys or another auto store.
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11-13-2010, 02:07 AM | #5 |
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Don't skimp on the compressor. That's where things can get the most dicey. If that thing slips or breaks....
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11-13-2010, 05:05 AM | #6 |
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Yes be very careful, I've seen a couple techs break their arm when a coil spring when flying out the side of a spring compressor. We only use a wall mounted type, works very well. $200, is pretty cheap as well.
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11-13-2010, 05:50 AM | #8 |
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I haven't done a suspension swap on an E90 but I have on a bunch of other 3ers and they are most all the same and I have read the TIS procedure. It's a bit more complicated than just removing the front struts because the ride height sensor needs to be dismounted and the procedure calls for breaking down the front suspension by removing the tierod, sway bar link, and lower control arm to prevent damage to those components. If you just support the steering knuckle with a jack while the strut is being removed and while it is out of the car you probably don't need to breakdown the suspension. Also it looks like there is a special tool needed to open up the steering knuckle (BMW calls it a "swivel bearing"), but you can probably get by with a big screw driver (used carefully of course).
You'll need some really big sockets and wrenches and an allen wrench to remove the spring. So, for the front struts you remove the strut assembly from the car and then remove the spring from the strut. My advice is get a Black and Decker "WorkMate" (it is what I use) to hold the strut while you are working on it to remove the spring. You need to have the strut assembly clamped in something while you work on it and the B&D WorkMate is great for this task. To remove the spring you need a spring compressor tool. Most auto parts stores sell them. I got my latest one at Advanced Auto and really like it. It bolts onto the spring with little U-bolts so there is no chance for the spring to slip out of the spring compressor. It is very dangerous working with springs because they hold a lot of energy in a compressed state and can kill you if you mishandle them. And note that the spring is still under tension while it is assembled with the strut. Just because the strut is out of the car and not holding the car's weight doesn't mean the spring is fully un-compressed; it is still dangerously compressed. The tricky part in removing the spring is holding the shock piston rod from rotating while you are trying to remove the nut that holds the upper spring plate on the strut (and reassembling it later when you install the new spring). There is a special tool for it, but you can get by with the proper sized deep-dish socket that has a hex-bolt pattern on the top of it, or flats ground in to the socket body to hold it with an open-end wrench. The rear spring is basically unbolt the rear shock from the control arm and lower the control arm until the spring is un-compressed and pull it out. Sounds like your friend should know what he is doing, and hopefully has the tools you will need. I recommend you get the Bentley repair manual to use as guidance. |
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11-13-2010, 02:33 PM | #9 |
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Good advice from ENINTY. Just to add a couple of things: you can actually "borrow" spring compressors from Napa and AutoZone, no need to buy. Air tools are golden for suspension jobs. The pain in the ass procedure described above for separating the strut assembly is made super easy with air tools. You can literally hold the shock body in your hand and get the lock nut off with a blast from an impact wrench. Avoid pickle forks at all cost for separating pivot joints with grease boots (like tie rod ends). They tend to mangle the boot.
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11-13-2010, 06:11 PM | #10 |
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I can do the rears in 20 minutes. The fronts in just over an hour. You do not need to remove the strut from the car if you have a good spring compressor. You need to pay attention to the big washer on the strut hat to make sure you do not put it on upside down. On the coupes, there is not a lot of clearance to get it out from under the front fenders. The headlight level sensors are no big deal. A couple minutes each to remove the arm. To good floor jacks and your good to go.
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11-13-2010, 06:19 PM | #11 |
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Just make sure that you have ever tool needed and possibly needed before you start the project. Shit goes wrong and when you are a beginner you won't know what to do.
I'd say pay the $200 so you don't fuck shit up. |
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11-13-2010, 06:21 PM | #12 |
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I'd pay the 200$ and not worry about it.
Those shitty rental spring compressors can really set off, and the last thing you want is a compressed spring smash your face. You'd probably die... =\ |
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11-13-2010, 06:24 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
BTW I'm a tech. |
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11-13-2010, 07:03 PM | #14 |
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Can be done, did mine - worth the 200 not to have to do them!
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11-13-2010, 07:08 PM | #15 |
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im a DIY guy.
swapped out my coilovers in 3.5 hours. took me 5 hours to get the trunk liner back in. |
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11-13-2010, 07:26 PM | #16 |
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The front on those is a bitch.
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11-13-2010, 07:28 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
we went to a SCORE race in Vegas a few years ago and I wanted to change a control arm I found a problem with that should have taken 15 to 30 minutes. I took the dam thing apart and pressure released and my ratchet shot into the block and chipped the edge where the oil line is (where the stock filter goes).. turned into an allnighter for 5 of us just welding material on the edge of the block and grinding tapping threads back in. You never know... |
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11-13-2010, 11:13 PM | #18 |
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$200 is very cheap, I paid $220 plus tax just for my fronts last week (I did the rears - pretty easy when you know the tricks). Just pay $200, wish it was that cheap here.
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11-13-2010, 11:28 PM | #19 |
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11-14-2010, 12:16 AM | #20 |
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11-14-2010, 12:17 AM | #21 |
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Damn. What the Hell is up with the liner? What's so bad about it?
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11-14-2010, 12:28 AM | #22 |
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